عرق السوس
irq al-sus
DOP 2011
Liquirizia di Calabria
Italy PDO recognition
50x
sweeter than sucrose
thanks to glycyrrhizin
100 mg/d
EFSA safe ceiling
of glycyrrhizin for adults
3-4 y
root maturation
before first harvest
Licorice is the dried root and stolon of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a legume of the Fabaceae family whose sweetness is carried not by sugars but by glycyrrhizin, a triterpene saponin present at two to fifteen percent of dry weight and roughly fifty times sweeter than sucrose on a molar basis. Because that sweetness is saponin-driven it arrives late, lingers long, and carries an anise-bitter-mineral shadow that no simple syrup can replicate. Glycyrrhiza glabra is the Mediterranean species that underpins Italian, Egyptian and French trade, with three named cultivars -- typica, violacea and glandulifera -- grown from Calabria through Spain, Turkey and Iran into Turkmenistan; Glycyrrhiza uralensis, the Chinese licorice or gan cao, is the cornerstone of traditional Chinese medicine, prescribed in more formulae than any other herb. Culinary uses stretch across five traditions: the core sweetening note of Chinese five-spice (alongside star anise, clove, cinnamon and Sichuan pepper); the Calabrian candies and amari built on liquirizia di Calabria DOP (protected 2011); the Egyptian cold infusion erk soos sold by street vendors in Ramadan; the Dutch zoute drop salty candies spiked with ammonium chloride; and Italian pastis-style liqueurs. Medicinal dosing demands caution: sustained glycyrrhizin intake above 100 milligrams per day can cause pseudo-aldosteronism, hypertension and hypokalaemia.
Mediterranean basin, Iran, Turkmenistan, northern China (G. uralensis), Italy.
DOP since 2011.
Italy
Mediterranean basin, Iran, Turkmenistan, northern China (G. uralensis) · Rossano, Calabria (Italy)
Perennial rhizomes restart on the Ionian plain. Glycyrrhiza glabra, introduced to Calabria in the late Middle Ages, spreads by underground runners.
Pale-lilac pea-family flowers appear on 1-1.5 m stalks. Pollinators come, but the root is the point -- not the seed.
Roots run up to two metres deep. Only after three to four years do they accumulate enough glycyrrhizin to be worth digging.
Cool season lifting. Calabrian cooperatives still clear long root sections by hand where machines damage them.
Roots are washed, crushed, boiled, the juice reduced in copper to a shining black paste -- the concrioli -- then dried into bars or powder.
Store as woody stick or dried shard. Steep in milk, tea, syrup; a pinch of powder in a dark chocolate ganache builds depth like salt does -- quiet, structural, not loud.
The molecules that make it taste like Kampot — and not like anything else.
Glycyrrhizin is fifty times sweeter than sucrose and acts on cortisol metabolism. EFSA sets a 100 mg per day ceiling for adults; sustained excess causes hypokalaemia and hypertension. Treat licorice root as a spice, not a candy.
4-8%
Glycyrrhizin
of dry root mass
50x
Sweet power
vs sucrose, weight for weight
1-2%
Flavonoids
liquiritin, isoliquiritin
0.05%
Essential oil
anethole-style volatiles
Deep, cooling sweetness -- slow build, long finish.
Bitter-floral flavonoid, balances the sweet.
Yellow pigment, faint anise lift.
Signature of G. glabra specifically -- warm, resinous.
The anise echo, shared with fennel and star anise.
Herbal-licorice volatile, rounds the aroma.
| Pepper | Glycyrrhizin | Oil |
|---|---|---|
★ Glycyrrhiza glabra (Calabria DOP) IT -- premium root, DOP 2011 | 7.5% | 0.08% |
Glycyrrhiza glabra (Syria/Iran) Middle East, bulk source | 6.0% | 0.06% |
Glycyrrhiza uralensis (China) CN -- gancao, TCM reference | 5.0% | 0.05% |
Amarelli bar (extract) Concentrated concrioli paste | 18% | 0.20% |
Anise/Fennel seed Shares anethole, no glycyrrhizin | 0% | 2-5% |
How the world cooks with it.
3 signature dishes
Amarelli has made licorice in Rossano since 1731. The DOP secured in 2011 protects a chain of practice -- wild-harvested root, copper-kettle extract, matte-black bars -- that turns a medicinal herb into the regional candy.
Matte-black bars of boiled, dried root paste -- Calabrian DOP standard.
Salento-style ice cream with root infused in warm milk.
Post-dinner digestivo built on root extract and bitter herbs.
What it's called, from Phnom Penh to Palermo.
عرق السوس
irq al-sus
甘草
gan cao
Licorice root
Reglisse
Suessholzwurzel
मुलेठी
mulethi
Liquirizia
甘草
kanzou
Alcacuz
Regaliz
Protein
Sweet
Not at origin. It is the dried root of Glycyrrhiza glabra (Mediterranean) or G. uralensis (Chinese), used as both spice and medicine for millennia. Candy is a nineteenth-century industrial derivative -- pleasant, but a long way from the root.